Advice for Beginners

Bagpipes can be troublesome instruments and require good care and maintenance. In time you will need to become familiar with the workings of reeds, but when your pipes are new and you are in the first stages of learning, it is best to leave the reeds well alone if at all possible. It is unwise to remove the chanter from its stock to expose the reed unless you really have to, as it is extremely easy to cause damage when reassembling.

Always ensure the chanter is supported so it can not fall out of the stock when you pick up the pipes. Dropped cracked chanters and consequently mangled reeds are not covered by the guarantee! If any of the joints should dry out and become loose, extra waxed thread can be applied, and Vaseline or cork grease to lubricate and seal. Don't overdo the thread - it should be an easy push fit.

• Always keep the pipes in a case except when actually in use.
• New pipes should not be played for more than 10 minutes at a time. Following each session, the stocks should be wiped dry with a cloth.
• Before the first playing, and at 3 month intervals thereafter, the inside bore of the pipes (especially the stocks and blowpipe) should be lightly moistened with bore oil.
• NEVER store the pipes in a cold (below freezing) area where the freezing of moisture can cause damage.
• NEVER store pipes in a hot car or area or next to heating units -- temperature extremes cause damage.
• When done playing, store pipes and chanters in a protective box or soft pack (example - the Pipers Pet bag available from C&C). This protects the pipes from accidental damage due to harsh contact with other objects.
• Take care not to 'overhemp' the connections between parts of the pipe. Too tight a fit causes pressure against the wood which could result in splitting or cracking.
• When putting the pipes away for an extended time, remove the chanter (and reed) and put the chanter protector (available form C&C) over the reed. This protects the reed against mildew and allows escape of moisture through the open stock, preventing an unhealthy build up of moisture in the bag.
• Never be hesitant about asking us here at C&C questions on how to best care for your pipes in given situations.

Observing the above precautions should guarantee a lifetime of good performance from your pipes, and much more enjoyment from the piping experience. Good luck and good piping.

Care of the Wood

Woodwind instruments should never be submitted to extreme changes in temperature, or placed near any form of heating or in direct sunlight. The woodwork should be oiled occasionally with olive oil - in hot or dry climates this should be done every week. Other oilings needed, using neatsfoot or olive oil, are as follows:

Pads - Weekly

Bellows - Six Monthly

Bellows valve and blowpipe valve - three monthly

Seasoning the bag

WARNING! The bag should not be treated with seasoning if it is made of plastic

If a natural skin bag starts to leak, you can usually make it airtight again by seasoning it. There are generally instructions on the can, but the basic procedure is to heat the seasoning in a saucepan, remove all the drones and chanter from the stocks, stop up all but one hole, pour in the seasoning and work it in - particularly into the seam. Leave for at least 24 hours before reassembling.

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Reed Maintenance

Setting the Irish Chanter Reed

The exact position of the reed in the chanter is of great importance in determining the pitch of the notes. If the reed is too far down in the reed-seat, then the upper notes of the scale will be too high - that is, they will be "sharp". On the other hand, if the reed is set too high, the upper notes will be "flat", or too low a pitch compared with the other notes of the scale.

To begin with, put the reed firmly in the reed-seat, put the chanter carefully in the pipes and play some slow tuning phrases. (Don't blow the chanter in your mouth because your ear may make you cheat. and your damp breath will ruin the reed.

All we want at this stage is that the low D and high d will be an octave apart. If you remember the singing lessons you had at school low 'D' is the "doh" and high d is the "high doh".

If the high d seems too high - that is, if it is sharp - then take the chanter out and raise the reed slightly in the reed-seat. To do this, take the reed out, wrap the hemp a little lower down, and replace the reed. make sure the reed is firmly in the chanter.

If the high d is flat (too low a pitch) take some of the hemp off the reed (or move the hemp higher up the reed) so that the reed can be put further down in the chanter. Keep altering the setting of the reed until the two 'D's are properly In tune

The use of the tenor drone may help you. Start drone going and by moving the joint up or down try to tune the drone to low 'D'. When the drone and the low 'D' chord together , then if the high 'd' and the low 'D' are in tune, the drone and the high 'd' will chord perfectly together.

Reed Problems

The back "D" is weak and breaks

this usually means the reed is weak, and it can be strengthened by;-

'Trimming 1/16" off the tip of the blades with a sharp knife.

Opening the lips by squeezing the sides of the bridle.

A weak back "D" can also be caused by a badly made chanter. Check that the bore is conical up to the base of the reed-seat, - A cylindrical portion of bore is often the cause of weak high notes.

The Bottom D has a Gargle

Try opening the blades a little.

If that fails, carefully shave the base of the reed.

A combination of (1) and (2).

The reed is erratic and will not jump the octave.

The sides are leaking, - use bridle to close reed slightly, if this fails, use a small amount of P.V.A. adhesive to seal the sides.

The corners are leaking, - trim the corners at 45 degrees slightly, this will often improve a reed and make it easier to blow.

Don't ever blow a chanter reed with the mouth. To try out a reed suck from the staple end.

Squeeze gently with long nose pliers at 'A'-'A' to open the reed. This makes it flatter, harder to blow and louder. A little alteration makes a big difference.

Squeezing gently at 'B'-'B' has the opposite effect i.e.. it makes the reed sharper, easier to blow and quieter.

Sometimes a bridle may come loose. It can be tightened by twisting the knot with pliers.

A reed that stops when increased pressure is applied on the bag is leaking, either at the sides or where it fits into the chanter. Apply beeswax paste around the joint between the reed and the chanter or nail varnish to the sides of the reed ( don't get it anywhere else!). ( beeswax paste is made by softening beeswax with genuine turpentine).

Squeals are caused by not having the fingers properly covering the chanter holes.

Drone reeds

If a drone reed stops it is usually due to a bit of dirt between the reed and the brass body. Clean by slipping a sheet of paper between the cane and the brass and holding the reed closed while pulling out the paper.

If it still does not work, ease the tongue open carefully by bending it back. There should be a tiny gap between the end of the tongue and the body. It should sound a steady note when sucked.

Rubbing the reed with the back of a knife also helps to get it working.